Hours of driving southwest from Inverness had afforded them unobstructed access to the natural splendor of the Scottish Highlands. Green and white appeared to be the colors of choice, with the occasional blue breaking through the clouds. Dramatic mountains embroidered with flowing white lines of waterfalls and modest little white-washed cottages induced quite the admiring squeaks.
The weather was holding up as they reached Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness, the site of many ferocious battles, including those with the infamous MacDonald clan. Now in ruins, the castle had been destroyed by the owners to prevent rivals from occupying it hundreds of years earlier, according to information at the visitor center. Paige and Wilder climbed the spiral stone staircase to enjoy the view of the loch, though faces grew long as neither captured a Nessie sighting. A great disappointment as they had talked about her for weeks.
Sonia and Murray loitered nearby on the grounds, trying not to worry about the children’s safety, they themselves stepping gingerly down the slippery stone steps to the loch, locking hands once again like the young lovers they had once been.
Before the first drops of rain, everyone had managed to meet back in front of the castle gates for a photo as black, foreboding clouds gathered behind them. Afterwards, they rushed back to the car for the couple hours of driving remaining to reach Isle of Skye. Although daylight abounded until past ten o’clock at night in the Highlands, and it was still only half past three, navigating the narrow, one-lane roads took a lifetime.
As planned, the family picked up groceries before crossing the bridge to the island. Isle of Skye lay before them like an unraveling mystery. At this last leg of their journey, the famous Skye fog began to roll in, eclipsing the splendid, ethereal countryside around them. When they finally checked into their cottage in the Sleat Peninsula, it was nearly eight-thirty, but still light, in spite of the mist.
With the sun going down, the temperature decreased rapidly. Sonia burrowed deeper into her fleece. She suddenly remembered a particularly gruesome story about the MacDonalds and their main rival clan, the MacLeods, from the guidebook. For centuries, the two clans had battled to control Skye. This particular incident involved a gouged eye and an arson attack on a church congregation attending mass. Sonia shuddered. It was as if during the day, the island lived another life: birds sang, the sun burst through the clouds and rainbows appeared. Then at night, the fog returned, bringing with it troubling memories of the past, like a shroud of unrelenting sadness covering the land with a temporary darkness.
***
For the next several days, the family toured the entire island. One especially fine day, they were able to drive almost completely around, visiting the most well-known sites. They enjoyed the picturesque little town of Portree, relishing the curried mussels they ordered at a restaurant near the pier. Paige enjoyed all the little shops in the town. Wilder’s favorite experience, of which he spoke for weeks afterward, was the trip to Dunvegan Castle, a fully functioning household for hundreds of years, in the heart of the MacLeod Clan country. The craggy landscape, towering mountains, and random red phone booths in the middle of nowhere fulfilled every expectation. Yet, the beauteous scenery remained wistful, haunting if you will, like a stained-glass window molded from the shards of a broken heart.